Slide over, scrapple and crabcakes. Barbecue is becoming a sweet, tangy staple in coastal Sussex County. There are three spots for smoky meats in Lewes alone, and the Southern staple’s popularity is only increasing. In 2022, for instance, the movers and shakers behind the 20-year-old Bethany Blues in Lewes and Bethany opened Downtown Blues in Rehoboth Beach.
In addition to brick-and-mortar restaurants, roadside barbecue stands are practicing a cooking style that originated in the West Indies. Barbacoa refers to slow-cooking meats over hot coals. Southerners embraced barbecue, and now the centuries-old cuisine has crept north.
However, there are differences, ranging from the smoker—wood-fired or propane-assisted—to the sauces. Taste the varied flavors for yourself at these eight spots. (Note that many stands close when they sell out—and they often do.)
Smokin D’z BBQ
Just off Route 1, take a turn on Cave Neck Road in Milton and immediately look for signs for this stand, founded in 2010 by Katherine and Damian Birl. The friendly business is a family affair. Collin, Sophia, and Gavin grew up serving customers. Sophia might handle the produce stand while Gavin makes homemade pickles and sells his photography.
The matriarch, Katherine, notes that the Southern Pride smoker is fully displayed so that you can watch the smoky action. The small but manageable menu includes baby back ribs, pulled chicken, half-chickens, and hot dogs.
The sauces—a classic (tomato-based), vinegar, and a mild hot sauce—are made in-house and served on the side.
Hours: Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
30511 Cave Neck Road, Milton; 542-9931; smokindzbbq.com
Smoke This
Keith Trivits, a former Navy cook, was drawn to barbecue while considering a career change. Initially, he considered a food truck serving cheesesteaks and other made-to-order items. After observing the relaxed atmosphere of barbecue stands, where proprietors comfortably oversee the slow cooking process, he knew he’d found his niche with Smoke This.
Trivits started with brisket because he’d heard it was the hardest to master. The meat, prevalent in Texas, is known for its “bark,” a flavorful, crispy crust created by the rub and slow cooking. He offers beef brisket platters and sandwiches; you can also buy it by the pound.
Other proteins include pulled pork, pulled chicken, ribs, and a half-chicken. Collard greens, baked beans, coleslaw, and potato salad are a few of the sides. Sussex Countians will appreciate the lima beans with corn and ham.
You can’t miss the stand outside All Pro Maids. Just look for the smoker that resembles a steampunk contraption made from farmhouse stoves. “It’s always smoked,” Trivits says of the meat. “I don’t have gas or propane.”
Hours: Thursday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., until New Year’s.
1546 Savannah Road, Lewes; 515-6044; facebook.com/people/Smoke-This-Barbecue/61550574687154/
Slo-n-Lo BBQ
Over the years, chef Noel Sickler has worked at such fine-dining icons as Chez La Mer, Kupchick’s, and The Back Porch. But he’s living the dream at the barbecue stand he started in 2012.
You can’t fault the Lewes location—Slo-n-Lo is just off Theodore C. Freeman Highway, the road to the ferry and Cape Henlopen State Park. It’s also near the Junction & Breakwater Trail. People come for the St. Louis-style pork ribs, which are flatter and often fatter than the baby-back version. You’ll also find chicken and brisket.
Hours: Friday to Sunday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
209 Monroe Ave, Lewes; 344-3761; facebook.com/slonlobbq
Bethany Blues
The longtime barbecue concept has two locations: the flagship site is in Bethany Beach—hence the name—and a Lewes location on Route 1. The latter offers a stage for live music, a bourbon lounge, a carryout section, and a happening bar. The Southern Pride smokers can hold 1,400 pounds of ribs, pork, chicken, kielbasa, and turkey breast.
The family-friendly restaurants offer options for those who want to skip barbecue, including salmon, steak, and fish and chips.
Hours: Different at each location; visit the website for details.
6 Pennsylvania Ave., Bethany Beach; 537-1500; bethanyblues.com
18385 Coastal Highway, Lewes; 644-2500; bethanyblues.com
Downtown Blues BBQ
The Rehoboth Beach eatery in Nicola’s old space has the same barbecue options as its larger siblings, plus a bourbon bar. It also has catering and to-go options.
Hours: Monday to Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to midnight.
8 N. First St., Rehoboth Beach; 900-2227; downtownblues.com
The Chicken Shack
Half a chicken—known as chicken splits—is a Sussex County tradition and the main attraction at the Saturday stand run by Mason-Dixon Post 7234 of the Veterans of Foreign Wars. Although the post is in Ocean View, the stand has a prime spot on the grounds of the Delaware National Guard Bethany Beach Training Site on Route 1.
Hours: The first round is ready at 10 a.m. and the chickens are usually gone well before 5 p.m.
163 Scannell Blvd, Bethany Beach; vfw7234.com
Charlie K’s BBQ
Sussex County native Josh Ricci worked at this Ocean View-area stand for years before buying the business in 2021 from founders Dave and Beth Rogers. (It is named for Beth’s stepfather, Charlie Kauffman.) Ricci’s customers rave about his Texas-style brisket and the signature sauce. Although it incorporates vinegar, a staple in Carolina-style barbecue, the sauce is red, à la Memphis and Kansas City. Customers can also choose tomato-, mustard-, and vinegar-based sauces.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. on weekdays, and until 7:30 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Closed Wednesdays.
95 Atlantic Ave., Ocean View; 539-2227; charlieksbbq.com
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