Bourbon Is Having a Moment Across Delaware’s Dining Scene

The American spirit shines bright on its own or mixed into cocktails at restaurants and bars throughout the First State.

Crowds cheer when Delaware’s George Thorogood belts, “I want one bourbon, one Scotch, and one beer.” But increasingly, fashionable consumers only want the bourbon. The Scotch whisky trend peaked with cigars at the turn of the century, and consumers are experiencing “craft-beer fatigue,” says Mike Stiglitz, founder of Two Stones Pub, which has four Delaware locations.

“Bourbon started gaining ground; it became a real niche,” he maintains. Mike Day, owner of The Farmer & the Cow in downtown Wilmington, agrees. “Initially, we focused on burgers and bourbon and had maybe 20 to 30 behind the bar,” he recalls. Selections included the expected: Bulleit Bourbon, Knob Creek Kentucky Bourbon, and Maker’s Mark.

Over time, the bourbon and whiskey collection grew, so customers came to try new products. “They have an awesome selection, and the guys behind the bar are very knowledgeable,” agrees customer Karen Wright.

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Despite its French name, bourbon must be made in the United States, which attracts many consumers. “It’s part of American history,” says bartender and beverage consultant Ryan Minnick.

All in the family

Bourbon is under the whiskey umbrella. (Note: The beverage is spelled “whisky” when referring to Scotch, Canadian, or Japanese types.) There are other differences. Scotch, for instance, is from Scotland’s five whisky-making regions: Speyside, Lowland, Highland, Campbeltown, and Islay.

“Despite its French name, bourbon must be made in the United State, which attracts many consumers.”

Bourbon is made in America, although it’s not limited to a state. For instance, Great Jones Straight Bourbon is a New York distiller that uses ingredients from Warwick Valley, New York.

However, Kentucky bourbon can only come from that state, which is home to Bourbon County. (Some maintain that bourbon’s name derives from Bourbon Street in New Orleans.)

Regardless, bourbon mash must be at least 51% corn. The remaining grains can be rye, wheat, or barley. The corn quotient makes for a slightly sweeter drink, which Minnick appreciates. “That’s not to say bourbon is better than Canadian whisky,” adds Minnick, who works at Bethany Blues and Stingray in Rehoboth Beach.

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Standard, single, small, and straight

Bourbon is aged in new charred oak barrels or casks. A “standard” bottle is made with bourbon from several barrels. There are also single-barrel bourbons, the epitome of a limited edition. “The single barrel is only available at the restaurant—nowhere else,” Minnick explains.

Bethany Blues in Lewes has more than 120 selections, nearly half of which are in the private stash collection. Minnick recommends asking for a selection from the single-barrel program.18385 Coastal Highway, Lewes; 644-2500; bethanyblues.com

Small-batch bourbons are drawn from limited single barrels, but the flavors are complementary. Bib & Tucker’s eight-year small batch is available at Bardea Steak, along with such prized bourbons as Buffalo Trace, Michter’s Small Batch, and Pappy Van Winkle 15 Year.608 N. Market St., Wilmington; 550-9600; bardeasteak.com

At Victoria’s Restaurant in the Boardwalk Plaza in Rehoboth, guests can try a flight of bourbons to taste the differences. While all bourbons are in the whiskey family, they must be at least 51% corn.
At Victoria’s Restaurant in the Boardwalk Plaza in Rehoboth, guests can try a flight of bourbons to taste the differences. While all bourbons are in the whiskey family, they must be at least 51% corn. Courtesy of Victoria’s Restaurant.

Straight whiskey bourbon, meanwhile, must not exceed 80% alcohol by volume and must be aged for at least two years at a concentration not exceeding 62.5% at the start of the aging process.

If you want to explore the depth and breadth of the styles, head to Farmer & the Cow, which has a staggering five-page list in alphabetical order. 413 Market St., Wilmington; farmerandthecow.com

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Alone or mixed

Two Stones Pub is known for its beer, but each location offers up to seven bourbons. Most of Stiglitz’s bourbon-loving friends drink it neat or with a single ice cube. twostonespub.com

Curious people brave enough to sip neat bourbon can try a flight at Victoria’s Restaurant at the Boardwalk Plaza Hotel. 2 Olive Ave., Rehoboth Beach; 227-0615; boardwalkplaza.com

You can ease your way into bourbon with a cocktail, which might include standard bottles or more exclusive labels. For instance, the paper plane at Harry’s Savoy Grill in Brandywine Hundred contains single-barrel Angel’s Envy, amaro, Aperol, and fresh lemon juice.2020 Naamans Road, Wilmington; 475-3000; harryshospitalitygroup.com

At Dorcea in Wilmington, try the Allen, made with Elijah Craig Small Batch Bourbon, pineapple, cinnamon syrup, orange bitters, and fresh orange juice.1314 Washington St., Wilmington; 691-7447; dorcea.com

Home Grown Café in Newark uses Elijah Craig for Title Town, a cocktail that includes Midori, Domaine de Canton—a ginger liqueur—simple syrup, and lemon juice.126 E. Main St., Newark; 266-6993; homegrowncafe.com

Potential pairings

Minnick says bourbon goes with any food. However, most would agree that bourbon is natural for barbecue, which explains the name Limestone BBQ & Bourbon. The restaurant has nearly 75 selections, plus 22 whiskey brands.2062 Limestone Road, Wilmington; 274-2085; limestonebbqandbourbon.com

Bourbon is also associated with the South, and 1861 Restaurant, which offers a spin on Southern cuisine, has a tab for bourbon on its website. (The page has a handy “family tree” of whiskey by grain.) 423 N. Broad St., Middletown; 376-7956; 1861restaurant.com

Meat can also stand up to steak. “There’s no question that red wine is the traditional pairing with steak for most people,” says Geoff Ming of Bardea Steak. “But as people learn more about whiskey, it becomes more interesting to pair with bourbon.”

He credits the vanilla barrel notes and sweetness of corn. “It all combines to be indulgent, shamelessly rugged, and most of all, delicious.”

Barbecue and steak are American favorites. However, bourbon has crossed borders. Ole Tapas Lounge & Restaurant, influenced by Spanish fare, has a selection. 1126 Old Capitol Trail, Newark; 224-9378; Oletapaslounge.com

Benvenuto, known for Italian fare, has a Bourbon/Spirit Club with private tastings. 249 NE Front St., Milford; 265-2652; benvenuto-restaurant.com

Enjoying a bourbon cocktail is one thing; having it with a multicourse meal is another. But restaurants like The Federal are undaunted. Chef/owner Todd Gray’s bourbon dinners have included a Willett Bourbon Stone Sour with a lobster-mâche salad and a French 23 with Noah’s Mill Bourbon paired with eggnog crème brûlée. See the website for the entire spirit dinner series. 62A Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth Beach; 727-5609; thefederalrehoboth.com

As far as Gray and other fans are concerned, things go better with bourbon.

Related: 9 Delaware Coffee Shops to Visit for Cozy Fall Flavors

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