Although burgers are trending at upscale restaurants, the sandwich’s longtime companion—the french fry—beat its buddy to the punch. The batonnet-cut potatoes are ubiquitous in quick-casual, casual, and fine-dining establishments.
Consider that the hottest appetizer at Ava’s Pizzeria & Wine Bar isn’t even Italian unless you count the cheese. Fries are dusted with Parmesan-Reggiano, which is owner Chris Agharabi’s favorite way to eat them. He plans to add the appetizer to his other beach restaurants, Hammy’s Burgers & Shakes and Theo’s Steak, Sides & Spirits.
Fries are undisputably versatile. At Pat’s Pizzeria in Lewes, customers can order steak fries, waffle fries, cheese fries, Old Bay fries, and steak-cut fries. 17644 Coastal Highway, Lewes; 644-9070.
Fry styles also include shoestring, matchstick, curly, battered, crinkle-cut, boardwalk, and cottage. You can top them with salt, cheese, chili, and gravy. Regardless, the perfectly cooked and seasoned fry is nothing short of addictive.
What’s in a name?
The “Associated Press Stylebook”—the reporter’s bible—maintains that “french” is a long, thin cut; therefore, the word is not capitalized. Tell that to American GIs in Europe, who discovered fries during World War I. Because the servers spoke French, the soldiers called them “French fries.” However, they were stationed in Belgium, where locals call them pommes frites.
That said, neither the French nor the Belgians brought potatoes to Europe. That credit goes to Spanish explorers, who discovered them in Colombia in the 1500s. But the Belgians were likely the first to fry potatoes instead of fish when rivers froze in winter. Meanwhile, Jewish immigrants fleeing the Inquisition in Portugal and Spain helped introduce fried fish to England. In i860, Joseph Malin introduced the first fish and chips (fries) shop.
In America, an 1802 White House dinner featured potatoes “served in the French manner.” (If you saw “Hamilton,” you’ll remember that President Thomas Jefferson was once the ambassador to France.)
In the 1940s, the J.R. Simplot Company commercialized frozen fries, and in 1967, McDonald’s became a customer, forever linking the potatoes with burgers.
Tried and true
If you’re in France or Belgium, forget ketchup. Bistro fries come with a garlicky aioli, which is how they’re served at The Pines. 56 Baltimore Ave., Rehoboth Beach; 567-2726.
Traditional dishes with fries include moules-frites, a Belgian specialty with fried potatoes. First State Brewing Company’s new Rehoboth location has five varieties, including curry. 19266 Coastal Highway, Rehoboth Beach; 386-2337.
On Tuesdays, Kindle features moules-frites for $17. 111 Bank St., Lewes; 645-7887.
Just a shell’s throw from Kindle, the Lewes Oyster House pairs boardwalk fries with mussels steamed in sweet garlic cream, Gruyere cheese, and bacon. 108 Second St., Lewes; 644-7258.
On the Wilmington Riverfront, try the moules-frites at Banks’ Seafood Kitchen, which serves them with shoestring fries and lemon-pepper aioli. 101 S. Market St., Wilmington; 777-1500.
Belgium also claims steak frites. However, it’s a standard dish in French bistros and brasseries. Snuff Mill Restaurant, Butchery & Wine Bar in Brandywine Hundred uses flat-iron steak and skinny fries. 1601 Concord Pike, Wilmington; 303-7676.
Unsurprisingly, La Fable, a French restaurant in Rehoboth Beach, has a version with pepper-cognac au poivre and garlic-herb fries. 26 Baltimore Ave., Rehoboth Beach; 227-8510.
Meanwhile, the working class’s meal in England became a pub standard. In north Wilmington, Stoney’s nestles battered and fried white fish next to hand-cut fries. 3007 Concord Pike, Wilmington; 477-9740.
In the 1950s, Quebec got in on the action with poutine. The traditional dish is a bed of crispy fries covered in cheese curds and brown gravy. The Brandywine Brasserie’s version includes cheddar curds, brandy gravy, and red-wine-braised short rib. 2000 Pennsylvania Ave., Wilmington; 240-4700.
Eggspectation Christiana adds an egg and wanders south of the border with ground chorizo, caramelized onions, pico de gallo, Argentinian chimichurri, and cilantro-lime cream. 507 Stanton-Christiana Road, Newark; 842-2515.
Ocean View Brewing Company also adds an egg to fries covered in bacon gravy, Wisconsin cheese curds, beer cheese, and a dash of Montreal spice. 85 Atlantic Ave., Ocean View; 829-1530.
A personal touch
Ocean View advertises hand-cut fries, which is also Hayworth & Finch’s claim to fame. “They’re probably one of our largest undertakings,” chef and co-owner Roger Andrews says. “It took six months to land a french fry that we liked. We use Chipperbec potatoes. We cut it, wash it, dry it, steam it, dry it again, then freeze it.” Frying in peanut oil is the final step. 11A Trolley Square, Wilmington; 510-6194.
Surfin’ Betty’s Burger Bar—the Ocean City, Maryland, restaurant that recently opened a Bethany Beach location—goes through 120 pounds of potatoes a day, says owner Vince Sapia. 786 Garfield Parkway, Bethany Beach; 557-1070.
Fry aficionados know the secret to a great product: Cook it twice. “We cut them by hand, cook them to get them done, and crisp them,” explains Agharabi of Hammy’s Burgers & Shakes. 19266 Coastal Highway, Rehoboth Beach; 212-5111.
Hand-cutting doesn’t mean an employee must wield a knife. Surfin’ Betty’s uses a special cutter for the fries, which go into buckets of water. “They’re blanched in the morning, and we finish cooking them throughout the day,” Sapia says.
Thrasher’s has one of the most detailed processes. Potatoes are harvested in September and early October, kept in temperature-controlled storage facilities, graded, and shipped to Thrasher’s, which stores them.
The spuds are soaked in stainless steel bins that each hold 2,000 pounds. A proprietary machine slices the potatoes, which are fried in peanut oil. There are two locations in Rehoboth, one in Bethany Beach, and three in Ocean City.
Locked and loaded
Keeping fries crisp is essential if the pile will support a large, moist load. For instance, Home Grown Café sells them covered in crab fondue and Old Bay. (The restaurant also has scrapple fries if you prefer meat over potatoes.) 126 E. Main St., Newark; 266-6993.
Fries get a dedicated menu section at Nick’s Pizza Parlor & Bar, and you can have them with cheesesteak or chicken cheesesteak toppings. Cooked in peanut oil, the fries come with an assortment of dips that also complement chicken wings. 1716 Marsh Road, Wilmington; 204-8700.
Cheesesteak is also an option at the Charcoal Pit. Or ask for fries topped with BLT fixings or pulled pork with cheddar and BBQ. 2600 Concord Pike, Wilmington; 478-2165.
Fries that eat like a meal might be too much for some. For the purist, nothing beats a cup of Thrasher’s fries with a dash of vinegar and a side of sea air. They’re the salty taste of summer, and dodging seagulls will turn the guilty pleasure into a sport.
Related: Our Favorite Spots for Homegrown Ice Cream at the Delaware Beaches
