If you spot a line of Delawareans, you can bet they’re waiting for food. That was the case on a late Saturday afternoon at the Shoppes of Graylyn in Brandywine Hundred. Nick’s Pizza Parlor & Bar was finally open, and diners wanted a slice of what they’d seen on Instagram.
The restaurant is one of five new Delaware-area spots featuring Italian cuisine—and no wonder. According to a study by pickyeaterblog.com, Italian cuisine is the most popular concept worldwide, and pizza is the favorite meal. But no two of the newbies are alike.
Back to the future: Nick’s Pizza Parlor & Bar
Nick Vouras and David and Joanne Govatos are a dynamic trio. Vouras, whose family owns Kozy Korner, used social media to build a cult following for Detroit-style pizzas. He sold them at pop-ups, including one at Swigg Real Wine, Craft Beer & Spirits in Independence Mall, owned by the Govatoses.
In 2023, Vouras opened Nick’s Pizza in an 800-square-foot location near Prices Corner. The demand for rectangular and round pies quickly exceeded the space, and parking became a problem. David Govatos expressed interest in starting a full-service restaurant when Ulysses American Gastropub’s space became available. The new partners closed the deal.
Nick’s dècor salutes the late 20th century with 1980s and 1990s wall-mounted albums and video games. Pizza parlor touches include a red-checkered floor, Tiffany-style lamps, and a wall-mounted menu with removable letters. But people come for pizza, not Pac-Man. And yes, it’s that good, with a style for everyone—including tomato pie.
Vouras is happy he made the move. “It’s clichè, but the community and customers are the best thing about the location,” he says. “People have been very supportive and welcoming.” 1716 Marsh Road, Wilmington; 204-8700.
More fuel to the fire: SoHo Slice
Pizza became the subject of hot debates in coastal Sussex County when an influx of New Yorkers moved to the area. Now there’s a new contender. SoHo Slice has replaced Atlantic Social on Coastal Highway. It’s the same location and owner—Anchor Hospitality—but a different concept.
“We needed a sit-down restaurant with pizza,” says Derek Fink, Anchor’s president, who went to pizza school in New York. The dough is stretched to order and cooked in a wood-fired brick oven. Fresh mozzarella comes in a brick, not in water, which would make the dough soggy. Each pizza has four slices for folding, giving guests an authentic New York mouthful.
While attending school, Fink explored New York eateries, where he got the idea for smoked burrata with arugula, which is presented under a glass bell filled with smoke. Wagyu meatball sliders are perched on thick pieces of focaccia, and fried zucchini chips are a crisp starter. Anchor also runs Blackwall at the Beach in Rehoboth and, more recently, the restaurant Ocean 99 in Bethany Beach Ocean Suites Residence Inn. 19340 Lighthouse Plaza, Rehoboth Beach; 212-5319.
Granny goes gourmet: Casa Nonna
Casa Nonna from Bardea Restaurant Group is a professionally decorated full-service restaurant inside DE.CO, the food hall that the group now manages. Since it’s a salute to Chef Antimo DiMeo’s grandmothers, Maria and Italia, Delawareans might picture heavy red sauces and a blanket of cheese over every dish.
However, the menu features reimagined favorites with an upscale twist and an approachable price tag. For instance, the mozzarella “stick” is topped with a pastry-style swirl of eggplant-Parmesan mousse and pearls of whipped robiola (a soft cheese). It sits on a pretty pool of yellow tomato sauce. “When we first put the dish together, we were all blown away by the combination of flavors and the harmony of everything on the plate,” says DiMeo, a James Beard Award nominee. “It just made sense, and it had that wow factor with the insane cheese pull as well.”
Be prepared to put your phone on the table—all the dishes are photo-worthy. Pillowy crab agnolotti wears bright stripes of pistachio and marinara that pop against the lemon-butter sauce. “It’s Italian cuisine at its finest—great ingredients, simple flavors, but when put together, just a bunch of deliciousness,” DiMeo says. Chicken Parmesan wears small dollops of ricotta and verdant basil. DiMeo says the preparation looks like pizza, and that’s the goal. It’s pounded thin into a round shape with the cheese on top.
Casa Nonna has a strong vibe, even on a weeknight. It’s easy to see why. From the globe chandeliers in the wood-paneled ceiling to a floor tiled with optical-illusion designs, the dècor is tasteful and urbane. 111 W. 10th St., Wilmington; 268-8941.
He did it his way: Cafe Scalessa
Donnie Scalessa was 19 when he opened a sandwich spot in College Square Shopping Center in Newark, and for 15 years, he worked nearly seven days a week. He opened other businesses but couldn’t shake the hospitality industry.
Scalessa found his niche after visiting Steve Martorano’s South Philly concept in Fort Lauderdale. In 2002, he opened Cafe Scalessa in Wilmington’s Wawaset Park area. There was good food and good times; Scalessa was the chef and a DJ.
Things have come full circle with the opening of Cafe Scalessa in Pike Creek, an offshoot of Scalessa’s “My Way” Old School Italian Kitchen in Forty Acres near Trolley Square.
The menu is similar at both locations, but specials and beverage menus differ—the new site serves alcohol. One thing is the same: “We put a lot of love into everything we make, from meatballs to homemade ravioli,” Scalessa maintains.
Going to the new location on a weekend? Make reservations on resy.com. “It’s swamped,” he says. And get ready to dance; the music starts at 8 p.m. 4414 Limestone Road, Wilmington; 510-8958.
Seeing red: Testa Rossa
For several years, the old Ruby’s Diner sat vacant in the Shoppes at Brinton Lake’s parking lot. No longer. In December 2024, Testa Rossa opened near its older sibling, the White Dog Cafe. Both are owned by Radnor-based Fearless Restaurants, which also has Moshulu and Rosalie.
Ruby’s might be gone, but the interior and exterior décor has plenty of red and pink hues. (According to the website, testa rossa is “redhead” in Italian.) It’s art deco meets the swinging ‘60s.
There are some expected dishes—chopped antipasto, gnocchi, and meatball ravioli. However, the ingredients are surprising. For example, marinated chickpeas, salami, and fontina are used in the antipasto. Chicken ragu, pickled cranberries, candied pistachios, and Parmesan cover the gnocchi, and the ravioli features torn burrata and garlic breadcrumbs. Brunch dishes include tiramisu French toast and runny eggs with a red-pepper tomato sauce, Sicilian-spiced cauliflower, and garlic bread.
Unlike some past restaurants in this center—American Grill, Big Fish Grill, and Ruby’s—Testa Rossa should have staying power. 919 Baltimore Pike, Glen Mills, Pennsylvania; 610-335-9900.
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