As far as Dan Sheridan is concerned, there’s no place like home. The chef grew up in Wilmington’s Forty Acres neighborhood, which abuts Trolley Square. After graduating from college and culinary school, he returned to his roots. “It’s always been my dream to open a restaurant in this area,” he says.
He got his wish in July when The Post opened at 1715 Delaware Ave. Sheridan previously owned Locale BBQ Post on North Lincoln Street, which was featured on Guy Fieri’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives” on the Food Network. But although The Post specializes in smoked foods, it’s no barbecue joint.
Offerings include sour cream and smoked onion dip, smoked lamb empanadas, and a smoked prime rib sandwich with horseradish aioli on grilled sourdough—along with brisket and collars.
That atmosphere also sets a sophisticated tone, from the copper-wrapped bar in a nook with custom tile to the marble-like main bar with underlighting.
Instead of picnic benches or trestle tables, there’s a copper-wrapped bar in a sunroom with custom tile, thanks to artist Rick Hidalgo. He also crafted the main bar, made of a marble-looking material, and the mural. Another local artist, Samara Weaver, made the serving ware.
In short, The Post reflects Sheridan’s culinary influences and artistic interests. “Dan is a driven hometown chef who has invested heavily in his training and has a deep commitment to Wilmington,” says partner Robert Snowberger, who also grew up in Forty Acres.
The Post also denotes the changing face of Trolley Square, where a growing number of residents are more likely to sip Awayuki strawberry-flavored Japanese gin with yuzu than Pabst Blue Ribbon.
Learning the ropes
Sheridan was born in Bogotá, Colombia, and adopted as an infant. (His adoptive parents later returned for his younger brother.) His father was Wilmington’s city solicitor and his mother was a schoolteacher.
The budding chef’s first job was in the restaurant industry, and in summers, he worked for beach eateries, including Wings to Go. He and his childhood pals also got jobs at the Logan House on Delaware Avenue. “That’s when I learned I was pretty decent at cooking,” he says.
While studying business administration at the University of Delaware, Sheridan met Brian Ashby, whose father started Ashby Hospitality Group. Today, the company owns the Deer Park Tavern, Cantwell’s Tavern, McGlynns Pub, and—as of July—Stanley’s Tavern.
Throughout college, Sheridan cooked at McGlynns, and when Brian decided to study the culinary arts in Australia, he went too. Why Australia? “Le Cordon Bleu had campuses all over the world. …We looked at the map and picked the one farthest from home,” he explains.
Back in Delaware, he worked at the Hotel du Pont, “a great finishing school,” says Sheridan, who worked with Bill Hoffman, Pat D’Amico, and Tom Hannum. He helped open Bistro on the Brandywine, owned by Dan Butler, and Big Fish Grill in Glen Mills before rejoining Ashby Hospitality Group to open Cantwell’s Tavern in Odessa.
Stoking the entrepreneurial spirit
While working at Cantwell’s, Sheridan decided to make artisan pickles available at several markets, including Janssen’s in Greenville. Wilmington Pickle Company lit a fire under the chef. “I got the bug,” he says of self-employment.
To increase production, he leased a North Lincoln Street space, which was so large that he could make more than pickles. He and his partners opened Locale BBQ Post in August 2015. Ahead of the “Q” craze, the takeout spot was a social media darling, leading to lines into the street and sold-out signs by early or mid-afternoon. “He stepped out onto his own with the greatly successful Locale BBQ Post,” Snowberger says.
However, barbecue was a departure for Sheridan, who worked at the upscale La Fia in Wilmington while the commissary took shape. “I wasn’t super familiar with it,” he admits. “We did tons of research. Maybe that’s why I have my take—I wasn’t steeped in tradition. But I know how to season foods, and what flavors go together, and to use fresh produce when you can.”
Locale BBQ put Sheridan in the limelight, and when a 7,000-square-foot space on Market Street became vacant, Buccini/Pollin Group asked him to tour it. “And I went,” he says. He knew nothing about brewing beer. But Andrew Rutherford did; he was a brewer at Yards Brewing Co. in Philadelphia. Sheridan and partner Snowberger opened Stitch House Brewery in 2018.
Opportunity called again when Sheridan learned Scrumptious on Delaware Avenue was for sale. “It was the right place at the right time,” Sheridan says. He was nearing the end of his Little Italy lease, and a new landlord planned to raise the rent. Although it was the middle of the COVID-19 pandemic, Sheridan didn’t hesitate. “I was sold as soon as they said the space was available. I’d figure out what to do with it later.”
Snowberger was game. “Dan approached me about continuing our partnership by moving Locale and reformatting it as a sit-down concept where he could incorporate more of his skills—and the skills of the very talented team members who have joined us,” he says.
A smoky shift
Considering Sheridan’s history, putting a barbecue place in the old Scrumptious made sense. Plus, there was a backyard area that Sandy Hollow Herb Co. had installed in the 1990s. Neighbors, however, weren’t pleased, and Sheridan wisely nixed the idea. “I didn’t want to open up and have people not want us there,” he says.
Seating dropped from 150 seats to just over 40. However, revamping the space, building an addition and securing a liquor license took nearly 2 1/2 years—credit busy contractors and supply shortages.
The overgrown garden was tamed with the help of artist and gardener Jerri Husch. Last summer, it held a collection of potted herbs and produce. Later, there might be alfresco seating.
Husch plans to hold salon-style get-togethers in the backyard cottage, where “we can bring people together to explore creativity, and food would be part of it,” she explains. Sheridan would also like to host art classes. “I gravitate toward creative people who are brave enough to make art their livelihood,” he says. That explains why many local artists contributed to the décor and design. For instance, ceramist Samara Weaver made the service ware, and Rick Hidalgo crafted the bars and mural.
Culinary is an art form, and every ingredient on The Post’s plates is carefully considered, says Sheridan, whose second in command is chef Barret May. For example, a tapas portion of eggplant comes with dill-sunflower pesto, spiced crispy chickpeas, ricotta, sunflower shoots, and a fig leaf. Even the fries get a dry rub.
“We are applying smoke as an ingredient, not just a way to cook big chunks of meat,” Sheridan explains. That said, there are still traditional cuts on the menu; they’re presented in an elevated fashion.
The father of two is the poster child for the new face of Trolley Square and Forty Acres—adults with children who choose to live here and retirees who are downsizing. “I think the crowd is getting older and more sophisticated,” he says. “It’s an incredible neighborhood with all the restaurants.”
And now, happily, there is one more.
Related: 25 Delaware Restaurants With Outdoor Dining in the Fall
