A whiff of smoke is usually a warning sign. But for Gerald Allen, smoke represents cozy campfires, succulent meats, and other comfort foods. The chef—aka @gravyboatjones—is known for smoked cuisine, which he’s showcased at SIW’s Field to Fork dinners in Chadds Ford and catering gigs.
“People have tons of questions about it; they’re intrigued,” says Allen, a Hodgson Vocational Technical High School instructor. Dan Sheridan agrees. The owner of The Post near Trolley Square and founder of Locale BBQ says the smell of smoke “triggers something in the brain” that whets the appetite.
Smoking also gets the guests’ attention. When a Snuff Mill Restaurant server carries a smoke box with foie gras across the dining room, everyone stops to watch the tableside presentation. “It blows people’s minds,” says owner Bill Irvin. “They see it, and they want it.”
Even desserts taste better with a sexy smolder.
Hot and cold
Our ancestors discovered that smoke prolongs the “shelf life” of meat, which was critical before refrigeration. Smokehouses became a common sight on farms. Fortunately, smokers now come in all shapes and sizes, including countertop models. Allen has two Meadow Creek smokers, the largest of which is nearly 20 feet long.
The chef mostly hot-smokes, a low-and-slow method generally between 165 and 185 F, which kills pathogens. Traditional hot-smoked food includes brisket, pork, chicken, and sausages. However, Benvenuto marinates prime rib for 25 to 48 hours and smokes it with applewood and cherry for five hours until medium-rare.
249 NE Front St., Milford; 265-2652
The Post’s elevated take includes smoked prime rib, served in a French dip sandwich and smoked lamb as a sandwich, entrée, or in a flaky empanada.
1715 Delaware Ave., Wilmington
“ Aside from the visual aspect, we see the smoke as a vital, sensory component that helps kickstart the olfactory enjoyment of the cocktail.”
Chefs also hot-smoke salmon. However, many prefer a coldsmoke at a lower temperature, usually between 65 and 85 degrees. The result is a silky but technically uncooked fish. (A salt cure keeps it safe to eat if properly prepared.)
At Bardea Steak, diners dip into a cold-smoked salmon dip with caper relish, everything spice, and cream cheese.
608 N. Market St., Wilmington; 550-9600
Charles Armstrong of NorthEast Seafood Kitchen smokes oysters. “It’s just something different,” he says. “It’s not available at a lot of places around here.” He shucks the oysters, returns them to the shell, and places them in the smoker.
29 Atlantic Ave., Ocean View; 537-1785
Anything goes
Armstrong smokes whatever he can, including black-eyed peas for a wine dinner dish. Sheridan smokes produce. “We do a ton of vegetables, and they come out great,” he says. The Post menu includes smoked eggplant with goat cheese, watercress, and roasted tomato compote. Smoked baby carrots are a happy hour appetizer. Smoked fruit includes cherries.
Since The Post has such a large smoker, he can experiment without monopolizing it. Friends who hunt have dropped off deer and partridge meat. “Some work and some are tough,” he acknowledges. “It’s easy to overcook venison.”
Allen has smoked ramps, an allium that grows wild, and used them to flavor vinegar. He also made a ramp powder for his seasoning and salts. “I use smoking to enhance seasoning and condiments, including fish sauce, maple syrup, and cured egg yolks.”
The best foods have fat, proteins, or sugar. “The smoke attaches itself,” says Allen, who is partnering with a friend to create the e-commerce site Sauce Dimension.
The Country Butcher in Kennett Square, which sells barbecue on Saturdays, carries Rogue Creamery Smokey Blue cheese, cold-smoked over Oregon hazelnut shells. “I always carry it. It’s one of my all-time favorite cheeses,” says cheesemonger Andrew Fournier.
145 S. Walnut St., Kennett Square; 610-444-5980
From start to finish
Beverage director Nick Georigi says customers increasingly request smoked cocktails. “Aside from the visual aspect, we see the smoke as a vital, sensory component that helps kickstart the olfactory enjoyment of the cocktail,” says Georigi of Platinum Dining Group.
The hospitality company’s Eclipse is famous for the Campfire Old Fashioned with small batch bourbon, maple, and walnut bitters. A flamed orange peel releases oil and smoke, while the glass visits a smoker with vanilla-smoked cedar chips. Eclipse’s Smoke Signals cocktail, which features mezcal, comes with torched sage.
1020 N. Union St., Wilmington; 658-1588
Redfire Grill & Steakhouse sports the 420 Old Fashioned with butter fat-infused bourbon, demerara syrup, cardamom bitters, and a brandy-soaked cherry. The cocktail is perfumed with cherry and apple smoked chips.
400 Lantana Square, Hockessin; 235-2600
At Bardea Food & Drink, the cocktail menu includes a smoked old fashioned with Old Overholt Bonded Rye Whiskey, spiced simple syrup, and angostura.
620 N. Market St., Wilmington; 426-2069
Snuff Mill’s glass smoke box is ideal for cocktails, appetizers, and a sweet treat. For instance, the s’mores dessert’s marshmallow topping is charred before the plate the chamber for a hint of hickory. “The smoke is not just for show; it does add flavor,” Irvin says. “You can taste it when you eat it.”
1601 Concord Pike; Wilmington; 303-7676
The technique makes the dish a feast for the eyes, nose and, ultimately, the mouth.
Related: These Breakfast Sandwiches in Delaware Go Beyond the Basics
