When Andy Meddick was growing up in South Wales in the 1970s, every High Street (we Yanks would call it Main) had a fishmonger, a green grocer, a baker and a cheese shop, all vending good local food. “I think the pendulum is swinging back that way,” he says. Which means his Morgan & Gower Cheesemongers in Rehoboth Beach is anything but a big box retailer. It is 500 square feet of heaven for cheese freaks, who can find 240 cheeses in continuous rotation, with 170 in stock at any time, all offered by a staff that knows its stuff. About 25 percent of the cheeses are standard European imports. The remaining three-quarters are sourced directly from the producing farms. Meddick searches close to home first, which means you’ll find a great number of cheeses from the Mid-Atlantic. But he also looks for hard-to-get Europeans, such as Garrotxa, which is made from unpasteurized goat’s milk only in the Catalonia region of Spain, and thus isn’t carried by most importers. “We are constantly searching for unique products,” Meddick says. (20 Baltimore Ave., Rehoboth Beach, 727-5566)
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