For some years while working in Laguna Beach, California, I had the good fortune of living right smack in a sandy cove, where sounds and smells from the Pacific Ocean wafted through open doors and windows. The sensory experience was sharpest in the winter and spring months, when the water could grow moody in blue and temperament, her energy churning up saltier air and thunderous echoes. After relocating to the desert, and later back to Delaware, I purchased a sound machine to mimic this calming effect. Meh.
Today when in search of serenity, the closest escape is our coastal towns, where Mother Nature offers the most soothing reprieve from small-city life and certain businesses elevate the experience.
On this off-season trip—still my favorite—we settle into the Boardwalk Plaza Hotel, built in 1991 to mirror the grandeur and opulence of the Victorian era but the ease of the modern age. Spiffily attired concierges and a trio of chatty tropical birds greet you in the front lobby, along with a spread of freshly baked cookies and hot cider to shake off the cold.


An oceanfront room with a spacious balcony provides an idyllic spot to sip coffee at sunrise (pack a parka), and at sundown watch the sky explode into hues of peach and purple over the horizon. En suite, plush sleeping accommodations, a sitting room with a fireplace, and a kitchenette make it feel like a second home. With Victoria’s Restaurant (serving three meals a day), Plaza Pub, and a heated soaking pool on the ground level, you don’t even need to leave the property to find R&R.
But here’s why you’ll want to: As its name aptly implies, the hotel abuts the Rehoboth Beach Boardwalk, where squawky seagulls and sea salt stirred with biting air beckon a stroll along this scenic coastline. Grassy dunes and weathered fences lend an iconic East Coast aesthetic to the mile-long stretch, while aromas of caramel popcorn and vinegar fries serve up comfort near the main avenue.
When beloved local eateries like Back Porch Café shutter for the season, others welcome winter crowds. Enjoy a shorter wait time at Egg Rehoboth for breakfast and brunch; celebrate an early happy hour with “Margs & Marys” at Rise Up; and warm your belly for dinner at Mariachi Restaurant, featuring fine authentic Mexican cuisine (plus the area’s tastiest complimentary tortillas and salsa and a robust menu of vegetarian dishes).
Many shops offer retail therapy year-round, but for a more soulful activity, why not try a spinning workshop at Pottery Mason or an author lecture at Browseabout Books.
Don’t mind taking the car? In nearby Historic Downtown Lewes, Biblion—home to the annual History Book Festival—features used and rare books and a host of events for bibliophages. Find a cozy nook to read—and an uplifting cup of Counter Culture coffee—at The Station on Kings, also serving up spirits and seasonal fare. (The shop carries some of the finest artisanal gifts around as well.)
If a spa day sounds soothing (or invigorating), cruise over to The Bellmoor Inn & Spa, where a spa package (treatments range from facials to reflexology) includes complimentary Champagne, a soak in the indoor hot tub, and a 15% discount on retail spa purchases. In Fenwick Island, Zen Spa promises Nirvana (a 90-minute Swedish and deep-tissue massage) and other ways to achieve balance.
If, like me, connecting with nature is where you find your deepest calm, the area offers an expanse of options, including Cape Henlopen State Park, boasting walking and biking trails, plus peaceful birdwatching at The Point and over 5,000 acres of epic views at Gordon’s Pond. Through the cusp of spring, Cape Water Tours also hosts a narrated and non-narrated Seal Watching with MERR Institute, where you can observe and learn about harbor and gray seals.

Also consider a longer ride south on Route 1, and then a left turn onto Route 611 to Assateague Island National Seashore. Stretching more than 30 miles from Maryland to Virginia, this summer-camping hot spot has much to offer off-season. Wind and waves whip up adventure for kitesurfers and other water enthusiasts on the Atlantic Ocean side of the island, while those seeking less adrenaline might enjoy exploring the marshlands and maritime forests.
Me, I come for the wild ponies. While we’re not sure how they came to live here—a Spanish shipwreck, abandonment by pirates, and mainland farmers evading livestock taxes are all theories—searching this dynamic landscape for 160 or so shaggy ponies is the warmest way to warm the spirit.

Related: Here’s What to Do at the Delaware Beaches This Weekend