You wouldn’t go to a seafood place for Bolognese—unless you go to La Casa Pasta, where it is thick with beef and hearty as it gets. The red and white sauces for shellfish are so subtle, the sharp garlic flavor mellows to a vague sweetness. The Alfredo is as smooth as Venetian silk. (120 Four Seasons Pkwy., Newark, 738-9935, www.martuscelliandsons.com/lp/)
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