Critics, Over the Line
Durham’s Best Barbeque
90 Fletchwood Road, Elkton, Md., (410) 620-6250, durhamsbestbbq.com
The hickory-smoked beef brisket, pork tenderloin and meaty pork spare ribs—all done Texas-style in a tiny log cabin— will melt in your mouth and in your hands. But that’s barbecue, now, ain’t it?