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Roma, Dover: Cioppino Fish Stew

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As long as he can remember, chef-owner Joe Garramone’s mother, a native of Sicily, made a rich cioppino for the family’s fest of seven fishes on Christmas Eve. It was so good, Garramone had to share it with regulars at Roma. It starts with homemade seafood stock. Then clams, mussels, shrimp, scallops and crab simmer in a tomato broth with red bell pepper, fennel, onion, garlic and herbs. The stew also gets three fin fish, which change with the season. Garramone’s favorite combo includes local sea bass and rockfish. “There are many layers to it,” he says. “It takes time to cook, but it is so good.” 3 President Drive, Dover, 678-1041, romadover.com